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Gua sha Doesn’t Tighten or Tone—Why the Beauty Industry Got It Wrong
Monday, January 06, 2025
Audio
Video
Does Gua sha Really Tighten or Tone the Skin?
We’re diving into a topic that seems to have been entrenched in the beauty and wellness world: Facial Gua sha and tightening and toning the skin on the face. You’ve probably seen those smooth, curved tools all over social media, touted as a miracle worker for tightening and toning the skin. But is that really what Gua sha is about? Or has this ancient practice been misunderstood and co-opted by the beauty industry? If you listen to my previous podcasts, you might already guess the answer. Today we’re going to explore what Gua sha actually does, what the science says—or doesn’t say—and why it’s time to rethink the way we talk about this traditional technique. Whether you’re an esthetician, a massage practitioner, or just someone curious about Gua sha, this episode is for you.
What Do We Mean by “Tighten” or “Tone”?
When people talk about tightening or toning the skin, they’re usually referring to a firmer, more lifted appearance—think reduced sagging, fewer wrinkles, and a more sculpted jawline. The beauty industry loves these terms because they sell products and treatments. But let’s break it down.
Skin tightening typically involves stimulating collagen production or improving skin elasticity. Collagen is the protein that gives skin its structure and firmness. As we age, collagen production decreases, leading to sagging and wrinkles. Toning, on the other hand, often refers to improving muscle definition or reducing puffiness to create a more contoured look.
So, how does Gua sha fit into this? Well, according to the beauty industry, scraping your face with a jade or rose quartz tool can somehow magically boost collagen, lift your skin, and sculpt your face. Sounds great, right? But here’s the problem: there’s no scientific evidence to back this up.
Why Gua sha Doesn’t Tighten or Tone the Skin
First, let’s start with the basics. Gua sha is a traditional East Asian healing technique that’s been used for centuries in countries like China, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Indonesia. If you want to know more about the history, you’ll find some of my previous podcast episodes devoted to exactly that. The term 'Gua sha' literally translates to 'scraping sand or cholera,' which partly refers to the reddish marks that sometimes appear on the skin after the treatment. It involves using a smooth tool to scrape the skin in specific patterns.
Traditionally, Gua sha wasn’t about beauty at all. It was used to address issues like febrile disease, heatstroke, fever and inflammation, by making changes in the tissue circulation system. So, right off the bat, we can see that Gua sha’s roots are in tissue interaction, not skin aesthetics.
Nowhere in its traditional use is Gua sha described as a skin-tightening or toning treatment. Its effects are focused on the tissue beneath the skin, not the skin itself. When you use a Gua sha tool, you’re stimulating microcirculation—the flow of blood in the tiny vessels near the surface of the skin. This can help reduce conditions related to heat, promote circulation, which can reduce puffiness. Gua sha also encourages fluid drainage (but not in the lymphatic way that everyone is telling you - Facial Gua sha and lymphatic drainage are not related), which can reduce puffiness and fluid retention. And for those of you who work with fascia, Gua sha can help release tension and improve mobility in the connective tissue. These effects can certainly make your skin look healthier and more radiant, but they’re not the same as tightening or toning. It’s also worth noting that Gua sha’s benefits are cumulative and subtle—it’s not a one-and-done treatment.
And here’s one of the key points: these effects are temporary and subtle. They might make your skin look healthier or less puffy, but they don’t tighten or tone it. There’s no evidence that Gua sha boosts collagen production, lifts sagging skin, or sculpts your face.
Where The Beauty Industry’s Gets Gua sha Wrong
So, where did this idea come from? Like many traditional practices, Gua sha has been co-opted by the beauty industry, simplified, and repackaged as a quick fix for beauty concerns. It’s easy to see why: Gua sha tools are inexpensive to produce, and the practice is simple enough for anyone to try at home. Add a few before-and-after photos and some bold claims, and you’ve got a best-selling product.
Common Claims About Gua sha and Skin Tightening/Toning:
Boosts Collagen Production
- Claim: Gua sha stimulates collagen production, which firms and tightens the skin, reducing wrinkles and sagging.
- Validity: There is no scientific evidence that Gua sha boosts collagen production. Collagen synthesis is a complex biological process that requires significant cellular activity, which scraping the skin’s surface cannot achieve.
Improves Skin Elasticity
- Claim: Regular use of Gua sha improves skin elasticity, making it appear firmer and more youthful.
- Validity: While Gua sha may temporarily improve skin appearance by reducing puffiness and promoting circulation, there is no research to support long-term improvements in skin elasticity.
Kim, S., Lee, Y., & Kim, J. (2018). The Effect of Facial Massage on Skin Elasticity and Blood Flow.
Published in the Journal of Physical Therapy Science, this study examined the effects of facial massage (not specifically Gua sha) on skin elasticity and blood flow. It found that massage improved blood flow and skin elasticity, but these effects were temporary. Any skin benefits from Gua sha are likely due to increased circulation rather than structural changes.
Sculpts and Lifts the Face
- Claim: Gua sha can contour the face, lift sagging skin, and define the jawline.
- Validity: Any “lifting” effect is likely due to reduced puffiness from improved fluid drainage through circulation enhancements, not structural changes in the skin or underlying tissue.
Reduces Wrinkles and Fine Lines
- Claim: Gua sha smooths out wrinkles and fine lines by stimulating blood flow and promoting cell renewal.
- Validity: While increased circulation may give the skin a temporary glow (and if you want to know what that really means join my pro Facial Gua sha class because it isn’t what most people think), there is no evidence that Gua sha reduces wrinkles or fine lines.
Tones Facial Muscles
- Claim: Gua sha tones the underlying facial muscles, creating a more defined and youthful appearance.
- Validity: Gua sha primarily affects the soft tissue and fascia, not the muscles. Muscle toning requires targeted exercises or electrical stimulation, which Gua sha does not provide.
Are These Claims Backed by Research?
If you’re looking for studies that prove Gua sha tightens or tones the skin, you’re out of luck. I’ve searched through research in both English and Chinese, and while there are studies on Gua sha’s benefits for pain relief, inflammation, and microcirculation, there’s virtually nothing on its ability to tighten or tone the skin.
- Lack of Specific Studies
There are no peer-reviewed studies in English or Chinese that specifically investigate Gua sha’s effects on skin tightening, toning, or collagen production. Most research on Gua sha focuses on its benefits for pain relief, inflammation, and microcirculation in soft tissue. - Indirect Effects vs. Direct Claims
Some studies suggest that Gua sha improves microcirculation, which may reduce puffiness and give the skin a temporary glow. However, these effects are indirect and do not equate to tightening or toning. - Beauty Industry vs. Scientific Rigor
Many claims about Gua sha’s skin benefits come from anecdotal evidence, influencer testimonials, and marketing materials rather than controlled scientific studies. These sources often lack the rigor and objectivity required to validate such claims.
Why We Need to Rethink Gua sha
Here’s my take: Gua sha is a powerful tool, but it’s being oversimplified and misrepresented in the beauty world and also modern TCM (Traditional Chinese medicine). By focusing solely on its potential effects on the skin, people are often missing the bigger picture. Gua sha is about interactions in the tissue—it’s about addressing tension, and stagnation in the body and how that interacts with the face. When we reduce it to a simplistic beauty tool, we risk losing sight of its traditional purpose and the deeper benefits it can offer. As estheticians and massage practitioners, it’s your job to educate your clients and set realistic expectations. Gua sha can be a wonderful addition to a skincare or wellness routine, but it’s not a magic wand for flawless skin. If it were, wouldn’t it be crystal clear by now?
The Bottom Line
So, does Gua sha tighten or tone the skin? The answer is no—at least not in the way the beauty industry claims. While it may improve skin appearance indirectly by promoting circulation and reducing puffiness, there’s no evidence to support the sensational claims we often hear.
Gua sha is a traditional practice with deep roots in tissue interaction, and it’s time we start treating it as such. Whether you’re a practitioner or a curious consumer, I encourage you to approach Gua sha with an open mind and a focus on its true nature-based benefits. Thanks for tuning in to today’s episode. If you found this discussion helpful, don’t forget to share it with your colleagues and clients. And if you have any questions or thoughts, feel free to reach out. Until next time, take care of yourself—and your tissues!
Hi, It's Clive
Director of Komorebi Institute
Hi, It's Clive
From researching underfunded healthcare in Uganda, to running a thriving chronic illness clinic in North Africa, to collaborating with hospitals in Sri Lanka to train staff and empower communities - My journey has been dedicated to democratizing access to beauty and health.
